A Travellerspoint blog

The best travel experiences of my life: 30-21

This is the continuation of the eight part series that begins here.

30. Eating sea urchins with locals in Versailles
Everyone is familiar with the Palace of Versailles but few of the throngs of tourists that visit the landmark trouble themselves to see the fascinating town that gives the palace its name. We chose to spend the first night of our 2015 arrival in Versailles rather than Paris and were rewarded in the morning with one of the most beautiful and exciting town markets we have encountered in France. In the outdoor part of the market in the central square we found Mei Ling's beloved rotisserie, with fat dripping down from the meat onto a layer of boiled potatoes at the bottom. There were golden brown baguettes and an enormous variety of French cheeses, as well as seemingly perfect fruits arranged in beautiful displays. Surrounding the square on every side were indoor arcades with delicatessens, butchers, and fish markets. It was a quintessential French market, far better than any restaurant we could have found. When we were buying some whole sea urchins, another customer asked us in French-accented English how we were going to eat them. We explained that we were simply going to scoop out the roe and eat it raw. It turned out that he was a college professor who lived close to the market, and he invited us to his house to have coffee. We agreed to meet him in the afternoon after we'd had lunch back at our Airbnb since we were dying to consume our purchases at that point. A short while later we were stuffing ourselves with some of the best food we'd encountered on the entire journey. After lunch we drove to our new acquaintance's apartment where we had coffee with him and his wife and showed them how to open and eat sea urchins. Their children were already grown and had moved to other cities and we had a great discussion about parenting and travel. I was amazed that they were so willing to welcome complete strangers into their home, even with small children who were constantly veering towards their fragile antiques.
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29. Ehrenberg castle ruins in Austria
On the road from Neuschwanstein to Innsbruck I saw a ruined castle atop a tall hill from the highway. Something resembling a wire ran from the castle to the top of another tall hill on the other side of the highway. As we drew closer I realized the wire was actually a suspension bridge running hundreds of feet above us. I could see tiny figures moving back and forth across the bridge. I knew this could be an amazing experience if it was possible for us to take the kids up there so I pulled over and did some quick research on my phone. I learned that the bridge was called the Highline 179 and it had only been open for less than two years. We still had some time before the bridge closed for the day so we got our tickets and began the long hike to the top of the hill. Mei Ling vetoed my plan to backpack both the younger kids and Ian did much better than I expected with the hike. We eventually made it to the ruins which were a lot of fun to explore and had great views. Mei Ling couldn't stand to be on the suspension bridge for more than a few seconds so I took the kids halfway across. The sight of the parking lot 350 feet below us didn't seem to bother them one bit. The best part of this adventure was that it was completely spontaneous and would have never happened if we weren't willing to be flexible and challenge ourselves to a task that seemed daunting at first.
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28. Gwangjang Market in Seoul
One thing we can always count on in east Asian countries is that we will be able to find a fascinating market in every major city. Seoul had several and on our second full day we set off by foot to find Dongdaemun, one of the most well-known. On the way there we came across Gwangjang Market which amazed us with the variety of raw and prepared food. Like all the best markets it was a food court as well and people were eating amazing-looking food all around us. After much debate we settled on a stall where a very friendly chef chopped up an octopus and a sea cucumber for us. Just to be technical, the video does not show the consumption of live octopus. It shows us eating a freshly killed raw octopus whose tentacles are still moving because the cut nerves are still firing. Cleo was almost three and just old enough to understand that we were seeing and eating things that were very weird and exciting. I'll never forget her squeals when she saw the tentacles wriggling on the plate. Since then she's definitely become one of us, eating everything from raw oysters in France to crickets in Osaka.

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27. Jemaa el-Fnaa square in Marrakech, Morocco
Somehow in the process of planning our first European road trip I kept getting bolder and bolder. A quick tour of Lisbon and Andalusia grew to incorporate a train journey through Morocco whose farthest point was Marrakech. The historic and colorful city is popular with European travelers so naturally there's a busy industry of vendors, street performers, and other hustlers but the atmosphere is never oppressive. The center of the old town is Jemaa el-Fnaa square, a large open space surrounded by cafes and hotels. In the evenings the square is filled with pop-up restaurants serving grilled lamb and huge buckets of savory boiled snails. We all loved the snails and Cleo helped us demolish a couple of buckets as we moved from table to table. After stuffing ourselves we strolled around the square where musicians were entertaining groups of locals mixed with tourists. Cleo was especially entranced by the friendly Moroccan kids who helped her dance to the lively beat. As usual, our instinct to push the envelope and bring our babies to this faraway place had been rewarded with a delicious meal and memories to last a lifetime.
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26. Ios, Greece
Twenty years ago I was still single and just beginning to realize I should travel every time I had the opportunity. The highlight of a two week trip to the Balkans was my stay on the tiny Greek island of Ios. I had never seen anything like the layers of whitewashed cubical buildings with navy and aqua trim that crept up the rocky hillside. Unlike its more renowned and harder-partying neighbors Santorini and Mykonos, gentle Ios provided warmth and intimacy during the day while there was always high energy in the compact town center at night. One of the trips I look forward to the most is bringing my family back with me to the Aegean islands so we can enjoy their culture and marvel at their beauty together.
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25. Making iguana soup in Leon, Nicaragua
Nicaragua is the only country where we chose to use a private tour company instead of our own wheels. I was uneasy about road safety and the price couldn't be beat. As it turned out, the tour company operator read us perfectly and devised many experiences for us we never could have come up with on our own. On New Year's Eve in the town of León, our guide helped us to buy iguanas and other ingredients at a local market. We were taken by collectivo taxi to private homes in the suburbs where we helped make tortillas and iguana soup, which was delicious. If you're uncomfortable with the idea of eating meat, or the requisite butchering of animals, click here immediately. It was a rare chance to interact with locals in their own homes and have a unique culinary experience.
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24 Camden Market and Regent's Canal in London
We loved Camden Market on our visit in 2013 so we went back when we were in London for Notting Hill Carnival in 2014. On our first visit we had marveled at the chaotic sprawl of vendors and artists and lost ourselves for hours in the network of alleys. This time around the market was a washout thanks to a series of rain showers so we decided to take a walk along Regent's Canal in the direction of Notting Hill. We had no idea we were about to see one of the most beautiful urban landscapes we've ever encountered. The canal winds its way through northern London a level below the city streets, making it an enchanted respite from the furious activity above. The water is carpeted with algae blooms and the sides of the canal are home to eccentrically-decorated houseboats. Set back from the banks are weeping willows and the rear facades of stately mansions and museums. It was probably the best place we could have been on a rainy day in London, with the light drizzle accentuating the verdant and colorful landscape. The best part was that we had never heard of the canal and stumbled upon it completely by accident, making us feel like we had made our own remarkable discovery in this incomparable city.
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23. Municipal market of Oaxaca, Mexico
Mexico is by far my favorite country in Latin America, with the most diversity in culture and cuisine. Although I haven't visited the northern provinces I would be surprised if any of them could eclipse the incredible variety of comestibles that we discovered in Oaxaca. Oaxaca is one of those cities I can't imagine every becoming bored with, like Portland or Valencia. It's just a magical place to spend a day, filled with markets and activities that can be enjoyed over and over again. The most pleasurable and exciting thing we did during our visit to Oaxaca in 2012 was spending half a day in the Central de Abastos, the largest community market in the city. It's easy to get lost in the winding passages of the market but there are so many unique sights that it never takes long to get reoriented. It was the first time in my life I had ever seen sheets of beef sliced so thinly they were translucent hung like curtains around a butcher's stall. The huge barrels of colorful juices, the freshly grilled meat, and the surprisingly fresh seafood buzzed all our senses from the moment we entered. Mei Ling bought an entire lamb's head and we paired it with fresh clam ceviche for one of our most memorable market meals in North America.
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22. Walking around Porto, Portugal
Not every great city in the world is amenable to being walked through. Sometimes the best areas are too far apart, as in Los Angeles or Tokyo. Sometimes they are squeezed too close together, as in Paris or Prague. But some cities like Copenhagen and Budapest are absolutely ideal for a long day of walking, and those have been some of the best travel days we have experienced. I wasn't expecting the relatively unheralded European city of Porto to join that last group when we set off on our expedition, but by the end of the day I was completely enraptured with the city's colorful buildings and verdant escapes. The day's journey included one of the most scenic bridges in Europe, churches emblazoned with vibrant blue azulejo tiles, immaculate gardens, a river ferry, and a cable car. It was also one of the most backbreaking walks in memory as I gave each of my three kids an hour long nap on my back, but the journey was well worth the temporary pain.
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21. Chateaux of the Loire Valley, France
France has no shortage of beautiful castles and estates, but the only place I know of that you can see three or four a day for a week is the Loire Valley. We spent our last few days of an exhausting round-the-world trip in this enchanted and blissful place. The opulence of the castles and rich countryside was a stark contrast from our prior stop in India. I still have vivid memories of exploring the castles with Cleo, who loved the staircases and the balconies. The magnificently landscaped gardens were the perfect places to amble around with the strollers and unwind from the stress of a five week journey before the return flight to Miami.
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To be continued with the top travel experiences of my life numbers 20-11

Posted by zzlangerhans 09:25 Comments (0)

The best travel experiences of my life: 40-31

This is the fourth installment of the top 70 travel experiences of my life that begins with this post.

40. Old San Juan
This will be the first of several appearances from Puerto Rico on this list. I didn't know what to expect from my first visit to the island, one of the early trips I took with Mei Ling before we were married. We spent three days in the historic barrio of Old San Juan and I can only describe it as an epiphany. It was a pleasure just to walk the immaculate streets of this colorful, colonial neighborhood but we were also amazed by the expanse and majesty of the grassy fort on the western promontory. We were blown away by the variety of top level restaurants in the heart of downtown and the quality and character of the boutique hotels we stayed at. The one we enjoyed the most had a half-ruined aesthetic with ubiquitous greenery and artwork and a subterranean swimming pool. It was the beginning of a love affair with Puerto Rico that led us to take my parents back there the following year.
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39. Weekly market in Sète, France
Since leaving Vaucluse we hadn't been overwhelmed by the markets on the Mediterranean coast of France. The large cities of Nice and Marseille had been especially disappointing. We weren't expecting to come across the largest and most diverse market of our trip in the relatively small port city of Sète in Languedoc. However we were fortunate enough to be there on a Wednesday, the day in which the streets around the municipal market sprung to life with vendors selling every imaginable variety of seafood, fresh produce, and local delicacies. Enormous vats bubbled with seafood stews, huge wheels of nougat threatened to crowd each other off narrow tables, and opportunities to eat freshly prepared food were everywhere. We strolled, perused, and ate to our hearts' content. Unlike the markets of Provence it was clear that this weekly market existed primarily to fill the bellies of the locals rather than the Instagram pages of tourists.
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38. Linderhof Palace, Germany
The Bavarian castle on everyone's bucket list is Neuschwanstein but we enjoyed our visit to Linderhof Palace more. Neuschwanstein was crowded and couldn't be appreciated up close. The only vantage point to get a view of the entire castle, Queen Mary's Bridge, was closed when we visited. At Linderhof the relative lack of visitors made it easy to focus on the beautiful features of the palace and the surrounding landscape. The magnificent architecture, gold-plated fountains, and lush gardens made it at least the equal of Neuschwanstein or even Versailles for that matter. It was the perfect place to spend a cool summer afternoon in Bavaria.
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37. Xingshun night market in Shenyang, China
Night markets are one of the features that make East Asia so incredibly fun to visit. Instead of being focused on food staples like the daily markets, they will usually offer a wide variety of prepared food and sometimes entertainment. Many of the night markets in mainland China have disappeared as the government has aggressively modernized the country, but fortunately Xingshun night market in the northeastern city of Shenyang has been preserved. There is a certain degree of artificiality about the market as it seems highly organized with licensed vendors, and some of the offerings like insects on skewers are clearly geared towards tourists. Nevertheless there is an enormous array of exotic food and a very energetic scene, and Mei Ling and I weren't above sampling a smorgasbord of deep-fried bugs and lizards. The locals circled us and looked on with horrified expressions as we wolfed down our arthropodic repast. There was plenty of delicious meat and seafood to sate what remained of our appetite. The tourist factor wasn't as annoying because virtually all the tourism was domestic Chinese.
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36. Tobago crab races
Mei Ling was seven months pregnant with Cleo when we decided to take a short trip to Tobago over Easter weekend. We weren't sure how much traveling we would do with a baby so we wanted to get as many trips as we could in before Cleo arrived. We were completely unaware that Easter weekend was a major festival in Tobago with goat and crab races and a huge feast. We spent Sunday morning strolling around Buccoo watching people preparing crab and conch for their feasts and getting ourselves invited to several, then we went to the fairgrounds to watch the goat and crab races. Mei Ling was given her own crab to race with although hers didn't seem very competitive. We spent an amazing evening feast-hopping with the friendly and hospitable Tobagonians and then headed to the airport in the morning. As we walked through the terminal I saw something oddly familiar on the front page of the Trinidad Guardian, the country's main daily newspaper. It was a huge picture of Mei Ling holding her crab in the air by its leash. We've been all over the world together but that was the first and last time we made the front page of a newspaper.
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35. Houses of Parliament, London
London is my favorite city in Europe and the locale of three of my forty greatest travel experiences. It's hard to list all the reasons I love London but I do believe it has the greatest historical architecture of any city in the world. There's no building that exemplifies London's magnificent architecture more than the Palace of Westminster, commonly known as the Houses of Parliament. I'll never forget walking down Parliament Street from Trafalgar Square and being absolutely stunned by the sheer size and majesty of the building. Once I got past its enormity I was captivated by the complexity of the facade and the intricate detail in the stonework. I felt as though I was looking an illustration from a fantasy novel rather than a real building that humans had created. My attempts to capture the memory in a photograph were defeated by the sheer immensity of the edifice. To this day one of the things I look forward to most when I return to London is the opportunity to stand outside the Houses of Parliament and appreciate it in the only way that does it justice, with my own two eyes.
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34. Muslim wedding in Delhi, India
In retrospect we were crazy to make a stop in Delhi on our round-the-world trip in 2015. We had two toddlers with us and Mei Ling was six months pregnant with Spenser. Mei Ling has always tolerated her pregnancies well, at least in the second trimester, and I had become convinced that if we didn't go to India before Spenser was born we might have to wait fifteen years. We chose a small business hotel in the old city, close to the markets and the Jama Masjid mosque. We had expected the crowds, the heat, and the crushing poverty but it was still brutal to experience in person. On our second night we ate near the mosque and walked back towards the hotel on a busy street packed with motorcycles, scooters, and pedestriand of every size and description. On a side street we pressed ourselves against a building as a line of cars slowly moved past us. One car was covered in garlands and we realized we were witnessing a wedding procession. We allowed the crowd following the cars to carry us forward down the street to a reception hall. We thought that would be the end of it but people beckoned us to come inside. Mei Ling was ushered to a special area for women, stroller and all, while I was allowed into the groom's tent to witness a religious ceremony in progress. I felt a little self-conscious in my sweaty tourist clothing and Cleo conked out on my back but no one objected as I took video of the ceremony. It was a captivating and magical experience, and very typical of the extraordinary hospitality we received everywhere we went in India. We made it through our six day stay without the slightest disturbance to our well-being, gastrointestinal or otherwise.
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33. Dune of Pilat in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France
In 2018 we detoured west from Bordeaux to visit the Dune du Pilat on the Atlantic coast of France. I knew the long drive would be worth the trouble since I could still remember visiting the gigantic dune from my own early childhood. I'd been looking forward to surprising the kids with the enormous mountain of sand for the whole trip and I wasn't disappointed. As soon as we reached the end of the short trail through the woods and they looked up at the dune, their jaws dropped. Once we'd clambered to the top the views around us were breathtaking. Inland was a forest canopy that extended to the horizon, and from the other side we could see across the bay all the way to Cap Ferret where we'd spent the morning. It was a great reminder that the natural world has as much to offer the intrepid traveler as the urbanized one.
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32. Napa Valley wineries, Northern California
Napa Valley is a wine region that's acquired an almost mystical status among travelers. The opulence of the wine estates has surpassed anything one might see in Bordeaux and now approaches the historical chateaux of the Loire Valley. With the proliferation of Michelin-starred restaurants, concerts, and art galleries the Cabernet Sauvignon that the region became famous for is now almost an afterthought. The greatest challenge for us was to find the seven or eight best estates to visit during the three days we spent in Napa and Sonoma. I think we did well overall, but the ones I remember as being the most visually stunning were Castello di Amorosa and Darioush. The exhilaration of exploring estate after magnificent estate in the invigorating and clean spring air was a sensation that I will never forget.
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31. Monteverde Cloud Forest, Costa Rica
At the conclusion of a week long trip to Costa Rica in 1995, my travel companion flew back home two days before me. I was in a hostel in San José and impetuously decided to drive to the Monteverde Cloud Forest, despite our car rental agent having explicitly advised us that our two-wheel drive Toyota Tercel was sufficient to get around the entire country except for Monteverde. That was the kind of decision I made back in the days when I was traveling alone. It was a beautiful drive and I ascended the gravel road to the top of the mountain without much difficulty. The forest was beautiful and it was incredible to look out through breaks in the trees on the trail and see clouds floating underneath me. At the end of the afternoon it was still light and I decided to descend on the opposite side and try to spend the night near Arenal Volcano. This proved to be a much more challenging endeavor than the drive up the mountain. It was before the days of internet and GPS so all I had was the map from the car rental company, meaning I got lost frequently. I found a small village with an open convenience store where they told me that Arenal was just ten kilometers further. After this point the road conditions deteriorated dramatically but I still drove nine kilometers over a rocky and uneven dirt track before reaching a dry creek bed that seem impassable. I figured I had taken a wrong turn and spent another half hour driving the nine kilometers back to the convenience store. There I was told that I just needed to suck it up and drive through the creek bed and I would have reached my goal. Back I went all the way to the creek bed and slowly forced the Tercel across it, expecting any moment to hear my undercarriage being torn to pieces by the huge rocks underneath me. Somehow I managed to get to the other side unscathed and soon afterward I was driving on asphalt road again. All the buildings were closed and dark so I eventually drove up a hillside, rolled down the car windows, and got into the back seat to sleep. In the morning I was awakened by the sensation of a rough, damp cloth being wiped all over my face. When I was able to open my eyes all I could see was some pink material blocking my field of vision. Once I was able to arouse myself and sit up I realized a cow had stuck her head through the window and was licking the salty sweat off my face. She retreated and I found my way back to town where they told me I had parked on the side of the volcano. Apparently there had been a lava flow on the other side the previous day so I had risked being incinerated. Were they exaggerating? I'll never know. Those last two days in Costa Rica are one of my few experiences with traveling rough in the third world before the internet came along to make everything safer and easier. Unfortunately whatever photographs I might once of had from that trip are long gone but I have every intention of returning to the Cloud Forest and Arenal once my kids are old enough to participate in all the wild activities Costa Rica is famous for.

To be continued with the best travel experiences 30-21

Posted by zzlangerhans 07:35 Comments (1)

The best travel experiences of my life: 50-41

This is the third installment of the top 70 travel experiences of my life that begins here.

50. Hatikva market, Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv offers a good example of how easy it is to miss a city's best market by doing limited research. Search online or peruse any travel guide for Tel Aviv markets and the names that will come up over and over again are Carmel Market in the city center and the Jaffa Flea Market. We went to both of these and they were pleasant enough but clearly geared towards tourists. Mei Ling and I know that we're going to see the best stuff where the locals shop. The way we found Hatikva market was to ask a cabdriver where the Israelis bought their food and we weren't disappointed. The large market in a nondescript blue collar neighborhood had all the frenzied activity and gore we'd missed at the tidy tourist markets with their falafel and hummus. Much to my consternation Mei Ling started buying all sorts of awkward foodstuffs like calf brains and rooster testicles but I've learned to just let her run with it. Surely enough we came across a guy with a small outdoor kitchen who willingly agreed to stir fry her collection of offal. As I watched I suddenly felt a searing pain in my right eye and instantly realized that a rooster testicle had exploded and ejected boiling juice into my eye. As I struggled to open my eye I was certain my contact lens had melted to my scalded eyeball and our vacation was over. Someone guided me to a tap and I held my eye under cool running water for a few minutes until he pain had subsided. Much to my surprise there was no lasting damage and for good measure the offal fricassee was delicious.
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49. Rooftop breakfast in Sulmona, Italy
The central province of L'Aquila isn't on many people's short list of places to visit in Italy, but it was the site of two of my greatest travel experiences. There weren't any Airbnb's available on short notice in Sulmona but I was fortunate to find a room in a B&B in the heart of the town that was one of the best I've ever stayed at. In the morning we went upstairs for our breakfast and found ourselves on a beautiful terrace with unobstructed views of the town rooftops. Beyond the neat rows of clay shingles and the church bell towers was the Maiella massif, part of the Apennine range. The view was breathtaking in every direction. Breakfast was colorful and delicious and included a tapenade that our host had made from olives she had picked herself. I could not imagine a better way for us to have kicked off our last day of an amazing month-long Adriatic road trip. Little did I know that we still had one of our top ten all time travel experiences still ahead of us that day.
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48. Seafood restaurant in Hangzhou, China
One of my favorite things to do in Chinese coastal cities is to go to a seafood restaurant that looks more like an aquarium than a place to eat. Chinese people love to eat food that was alive just minutes ago, which is why you'll sometimes see a well-dressed office worker going home on the bus with a live chicken in a cage. Many seafood restaurants have a huge variety of live fish and shellfish on display and I've never seen a selection like I did in Hangzhou, a close neighbor of Shanghai. Having Mei Ling with me meant nothing was off limits, not even the silkworms or horseshoe crab. The crab was particularly fascinating, with delicious glutinous roe filling the crevasses in the shell. As with all my best experiences in China, it would have been impossible if unaccompanied by someone familiar with the culture and fluent in Chinese.
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47. Atwater Market in Montréal, Canada
Yes, it's another market and it's far from the last. Markets are one of the first things I research when I decide to put a city on our itinerary. There's no better way for travelers to integrate themselves into the natural daily life of a city. There's always new and unusual things to see and taste, people to talk with, and energy to absorb. The main produce market in Montréal is Jean-Talon in Little Italy but by far our favorite was the much smaller gourmet Atwater Market near the Lachine Canal. Not only was there excellent produce and a very appealing food court, but the indoor delis had the most appetizing selection of prepared food one could imagine. The self-catered lunch we put together in the market was one of the best meals we had on that entire road trip.
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46. La Rocca di Cefalù, Sicily
This massive rocky outcropping looms over the small coastal town of Cefalù as if to challenge visitors to scale it. After debating anxiously with myself if we should attempt it with three kids under five, I decided we would go for it and as usual I was rewarded for taking the bolder path. The climb was grueling but never hazardous and the ruined fort and views at the summit were magical. Possibly the best part was the feeling of accomplishment from overcoming such a strenuous physical challenge.
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45. Michelin three star restaurants, New York City
In 2013 we decided to reward ourselves for becoming a family by eating in four of New York City's most renowned Michelin three star restaurants on consecutive nights. We got off to a bad start with a heavy and uneven meal at Per Se, followed by much better outings at Jean-Georges and Daniel, and finally a spectacular dinner at Le Bernardin. It's impossible for the food itself to justify the the exaltation these restaurants are held in and their exorbitant prices, but it was a unique experience to eat at so many of these venerable institutions in one of the great culinary cities of the world. Ironically enough, on our last night in the city we ate at a relatively unheralded Italian restaurant that we both agreed was at least the equal if not superior to anything we had had the previous four nights.

44. Old Town Square in Prague
It probably won't come as a shock that Prague's Old Town is quite beautiful. Those millions of tourists show up every year for a reason. At the center of it all, Old Town Square is on another level from the main squares of other renowned European cities. The sheer number of glorious and historic edifices in a variety of architectural styles is overwhelming. The gothic Tyn Church immediately catches the eye with its wicked-looking black spires, but there is also the fascinating Astronomical Clock and the imposing baroque St. Nicholas Church. Somehow all of these diverse structures come together harmoniously to create a space that might better be suited to a fairy tale than our modern Western society. It took us ten minutes standing in the center of the square just to soak in the immaculateness of what we were seeing.
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43. Mt. Ulriken in Bergen, Norway
Despite being Norway's second-largest city, Bergen has less than 300,000 inhabitants. It didn't take us long to walk through the interesting parts of the town, leaving time to explore one of the famous mountains that surround the city. Of the two that are accessible by public transportation we chose Mt. Ulriken, which has continuously-running cable car. We were amazed by the expansive panorama of town and sea once we disembarked. On the other side we saw people picking their way through the rocky hillsides and decided to see how far we could get. We made some pretty good headway along the choppy trail and eventually summited a hillock with far-reaching views over the otherworldly landscape. For a few minutes there were no other humans in sight and it felt as if our little family had landed alone on an uninhabited planet.
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42. French language immersion in Nice
The summer after I finished medical school I spent a month in Nice doing a French immersion course. It was a final blast of freedom before embarking on a grueling surgical residency. Although I made my decision impetuously and blundered into my chosen school and location without much consideration, virtually everything went right. Nice was a fascinating city, the beach was a hive of energy, and the director of a Brazilian modeling academy had chosen my school for the French education of his charges that summer. The month went by so fast that my head spun once I realized I would be returning home the next day. It was six years before I had the chance to try something similar, this time with Spanish in Barcelona. There weren't any Brazilian models this time around but I did have another of my top travel experiences of a completely different nature.
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41. Iguana roti in Port-of-Spain, Trinidad
One of the many great things about Mei Ling is that once she puts her mind to something she will pursue it with fierce determination. Before our first visit to Trinidad she had read about the locals hunting and cooking iguanas and she decided she wanted to try it. She started out asking our cab driver at the airport and when he acknowledged having family who hunted iguana she convinced him to give us his phone number. She bugged him a couple of times over the next few days while we were doing Carnival activities and he seemed to be putting her off. I told her to leave the poor guy alone because I couldn't imagine any reason he would want to inconvenience himself for a couple of pushy American tourists. However on our last night he gave us a call and told us his sister-in-law had a freshly killed iguana if we wanted to come over for dinner. Mei Ling answered that not only were we coming over for dinner, we were going to help cook. Soon we were in their kitchen doing our part to butcher the iguana and roll roti pancakes. I can't claim that the iguana was delicious - it wasn't unlike other small animals that are hardly worth the effort of separating them from their bones, but the experience was incomparable. I'd rather spend an evening with a local family when I travel than see all the tourist attractions put together.
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To be continued with the best travel experiences numbers 40-31.

Posted by zzlangerhans 14:25 Comments (0)

The best travel experiences of my life: 60-51

This is the continuation of the list of the top 70 travel experiences of my life that begins here.

60. Easter weekend arts festival in Montevideo
One spring break a couple of years ago we found ourselves in Montevideo on Easter weekend, not out of any overwhelming desire to see Montevideo but as a byproduct of a trip to Buenos Aires and a gaucho ranch in Uruguay. Strangely enough, Montevideo turned out to have as much if not more to offer us than Buenos Aires. The highlight of our busy weekend was an arts festival I stumbled across on a Spanish language website while searching online for local events. The festival turned out to be a huge affair with areas for artwork, crafts, a rodeo, and an enormous parrillada that was feeding hundreds of patrons. We had a great time browsing the artwork and listening to spontaneous musical performances and we felt fortunate to have randomly stumbled across this opportunity to immerse ourselves in authentic Uruguayan culture.
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59. Jet Ski tour of Biscayne Bay, Miami
I tend to be judgmental about cities and my home city of Miami is no exception. It's the perfect place for me to live but I can't recommend it strongly as a travel destination unless you have an affinity for nightclubbing. I didn't discover some of Miami's best features until Mei Ling began coming to visit in 2008 and I needed to find activities to entertain her. One of the most fun things we've done in Miami was take a Jet Ski tour of the north section of Biscayne Bay, the body of water between Miami Beach and the mainland where one can see many of the spectacular waterfront mansions the city is known for. The most impressive was the enormous neoclassical palace of Philip Frost, the inventor of Viagra, on Star Island. The best part was the thrilling sense of freedom from driving the powerful watercraft along the choppy water surface and feeling the fresh sea breeze in our faces. The omnipresent water and sunny weather are my favorite thing about Miami, along with the Latin culture.
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58. Municipal market of Ocho Rios, Jamaica
For most tourists Ocho Rios is a cruise ship stop where you can climb Dunn's River Falls or go ziplining in a forest canopy. In 2009 Mei Ling and I were circumnavigating Jamaica by route bus so we got to see a different side of the city. One odd thing I remember was crossing from the town of Ocho Rios into the cruise ship port. It was almost like crossing a border between countries. Suddenly everything around us was gaudy and Americanized and prices were three times higher than in town. Back in the real Ocho Rios the municipal produce market was humming. Vendors had parked pickups laden with fruits and vegetables in front of the market and were selling their goods right out of the trucks. Inside the market were freshly-cooked food, a bar, and a DJ cueing up the latest reggae tracks. A sign on the wall requested that patrons remain from smoking ganja inside. There were no other tourists to be seen. Mei Ling and I circled around the market for hours eating, drinking, and dancing much to the amusement of the locals. It was the best market we found in Jamaica and an unusual chance to mingle with locals in a country where tourists normally move in a bubble.
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57. Saturday Market, Portland, Oregon
Our best travel year to date is still 2014. We kicked it off with our first European road trip to Iberia when Ian was just six months old and closed it out in central Mexico. In between we hit NYC, Israel, the Pacific Northwest, England, and the Adriatic coast. The genesis of the Pacific Northwest road trip was a desire to visit Seattle that got expanded to include Portland and Vancouver. As occasionally happens, we found our primary focus of Seattle to be a big disappointment but Portland proved to be an epiphany. Despite being a relatively small city, Portland had a range of fun things to do that rivaled or exceeded some of the largest metropolises in the United States. There was also an amazing food culture that included an impressive array of farmers markets and multiple delicious brunch options every day of the week. It's hard to select a single activity that we enjoyed most but the Portland Saturday Market is probably at the top of the list. This high energy outdoor market on the bank of the Willamette River was a showplace for a great collection of local artists and craftspeople and also had a live band and plenty of food. As usual, Cleo didn't mind at all being the only one dancing and the band made it clear how much they appreciated her.
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56. Yakitori Alley in Tokyo
This is another experience from our first round-the-world trip in 2013 when Cleo was almost a year old and Mei Ling was pregnant with Ian. It's difficult to pick a top experience from the nine amazing days we spent in Tokyo but I'll never forget the night we were out walking near our hotel in Shinjuku ward and stumbled across Yakitori Alley, a hive of tiny restaurants mainly offering grilled snacks on skewers. While yakitori specifically refers to grilled chicken, the restaurants offered a variety of meats from whelks to pork rectum. Typically the food was served from behind a U-shaped bar with stools packed around the circumference, and no room for any tables. Cleo was asleep when we sat down to eat but woke up halfway through dinner and suddenly popped her head out of my backpack, much to the surprise and delight of our fellow diners. Few tourists are comfortable enough to navigate this type of restaurant, so we were mostly surrounded by locals with a smattering of expats and backpackers. I've always been glad we chose to spend the whole nine days of our Japan stop in Tokyo rather than spreading ourselves over different cities. We spent every one of those days in a different ward and it felt like we were visiting nine different cities.
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55. Grand Central Market in Los Angeles
Anyone who reads my travel blog knows that I've loved food halls since we visited one of the originals, Mercado de San Miguel, in Madrid in 2014. The best are the ones that offer authentic dishes from a wide variety of different cuisines, and the best of the best was Grand Central Market in Los Angeles. The sheer number and variety of miniature restaurants was overwhelming and the quality of food was almost universally outstanding. If I could teleport just one of Los Angeles's great attributes home to Miami, it would be Grand Central Market.
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54. Callejoneada in Guanajuato, Mexico
One of the best things in traveling is feeling like you're being welcomed into the culture of your host country. Sometimes those experiences can be artificial, but the callejoneada we joined in the beautiful colonial city of Guanajuato felt very warm and authentic. In this local musical tradition, groups of university students sing and play instruments in front of the cathedral and then take their audience on a tour of the callejons, a charming network of narrow staircases and alleys in the old town. Along the way the students tell jokes and stories and pour drinks. Fortunately I was trying my best to follow along with my rudimentary Spanish because at one point the speaker suddenly stopped in the middle of his joke to ask me what I thought the most important thing was to know about women. I can't remember my answer but it was comprehensible and pithy enough to elicit guffaws from the students and the rest of the audience. I remember that Cleo could tell something special and exciting was going on despite being only two years old, and she was very intently scurrying along keeping up with the leader of the group. This was one of many wonderful experiences I've had in Mexico, a country that I'm proud to have as a neighbor but is poorly understood by my fellow Americans.
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53. Ometepe, Nicaragua
The barbell-shaped island of Ometepe is what first caught my eye on Google Maps and drew me to arrange our guided journey to Nicaragua in 2016. At the end of our trip we spent a magical two days on the peaceful island taking nature walks, observing troops of howler monkeys in the trees, and eating delicious meals in our beautiful lodge. Through it all we remained under the silent authority of Ometepe's two majestic volcanoes, Concepción and Maderas.
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52. Summer Palace, Beijing
Over the years I've become more and more averse to historical tourist attractions and I'm proud of the large number of them that I've avoided during my travels. Two of my least favorite experiences in Beijing were the Forbidden City and the Great Wall, and I feel compassion for anyone who believes they've experienced that amazing city after visiting those two places. On the other hand, just because a place is a tourist attraction doesn't automatically make it unworthy of a visit. I was on my own for the day when I went to the Summer Palace during my first visit to Beijing in 2008. At that time there was a public boat that went all the way to the palace from central Beijing via the canals. On the boat were some girls who were visiting from rural towns and hadn't seen many Caucasians before. Once we reached the palace they all took turns getting their pictures taken with me. The 18th century site is a beautiful complex of Qing Dynasty buildings and gardens at the edge of a large lake that is full of islands and bridges. I spent much more time walking the paths around and over the lake than I did in the buildings, but I was astounded by the beautiful Marble Boat which is actually made of wood painted to look like marble. Beijing became much less interesting for a traveler between my two visits in 2008 and 2020 so I will always treasure the memories of that first visit.
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51. Walking central Copenhagen
Copenhagen is even more of a water city than Miami, although the latitude makes it less amenable to sunbathing and watersports. Strolling around the city center is an amazing journey through lush gardens, ornate palaces, and canals whose banks are filled with vitality. The list of interesting sights that can be reached in just a few hours of walking is almost endless. We dedicated an entire day just to walking around Copenhagen and it was one of our most enjoyable experiences in Scandinavia.
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To be continued with the best travel experiences of my life numbers 50-41

Posted by zzlangerhans 09:15 Comments (0)

The best travel experiences of my life: 70-61

Considering that our spring break trip to Belize and Guatemala has been canceled and our summer trip to Eastern Europe appears to be out of the question as well, I've decided to fill this unexpected hole in my travel history with a project I've been thinking about for some time. What have been my best travel experiences ever? Of course, that really means just the last twenty-five years because childhood memories are too hazy and I have very few pictures from back then. Most of the best experiences have come since I met my wife twelve years ago and we began traveling voraciously. I planned to make a list of fifty experiences which quickly spilled over sixty, and then I managed to extend it to seventy. Rather than struggle to stretch the list to a round hundred, I decided that seventy would be perfectly adequate for eight blog posts. Some of the experiences, like the Taj Mahal and Prague's Old Town Square, are obvious. Some like Rocca Calascio and Vestmannaeyjar are practically unknown. And others, like the times people brought us home to cook and meet their families, are unique. Of course the rank order is rough, life experiences are very hard to compare. However, there's no question that the ones at the top are some of the most memorable and enjoyable moments of my life.

70. No Name Pub in Big Pine Key, Florida
Before Mei Ling and I were married we lived in different cities and would travel together when we could arrange free time. Once we decided to just stay local and drove down to Key West on the Overseas Highway. Most people are familiar with Key West but not many know that there is a whole chain of little islands between the mainland and Key West, some of which aren't much wider than the highway that crosses them. The Keys are home to an assortment of iconoclastic folk and have many hidden secrets. One of those secrets is the Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine Key. Not many people stop in Big Pine, but if you make a hard right north from the highway you'll soon find yourself in a quiet residential neighborhood with plenty of tiny Key deer. Decades of protection have made them fearless and they will come up to cars looking for handouts, although people aren't supposed to feed them. We happened to have lychees in the car and we couldn't resist, I'm sorry to say. At the end of the road in Big Pine before the bridge that crosses over to sparsely-populated No Name Key is the No Name Pub. Despite its out-of-the-way location the gravel parking lot always seems to be full. Inside the walls are completely blanketed with layers of dollar bills stapled to the walls. No Name isn't the only bar to have that tradition in the US, but I think it's the only one that doesn't have a single inch of the original wall or ceiling left uncovered. Mei Ling had never seen anything like it before and she thought it was hilarious. We made sure to staple our own bill to the wall before we left, with my message in English and hers in Chinese. No Name Pub doesn't get its traffic just from the decor. They have some of the best conch fritters I've ever tasted with plenty of pieces of tender conch inside them. Key West is a great place to spend a weekend, but if you just drive there nonstop from Miami you'll miss a lot.
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69. New World Mall Food Court

Yes, I'm the kind of guy who can have one of his best travel experiences at a mall food court. Of course, the version at New World Mall in Flushing, Queens is no ordinary food court. The expansive basement contains dozens of stalls serving up Asian food from different regions of China as well as Korea and Southeast Asia. For any lover of spicy food and Asian food it is the closest thing to Nirvana in the Americas, although it would be positively ordinary in East Asia.
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68. Savannah Historic District
I love to visit other countries and experience a foreign ambiance, but I also love American regional culture. In terms of historic American Southern charm, it doesn't get any better than Savannah, Georgia. The Historic District is a geometrically-pleasing grid of narrow streets lined with 18th century mansions and stately trees draped in Spanish moss. If there's a more beautiful residential neighborhood in the United States, I have yet to see it. The neighborhood has plenty of atmospheric restaurants, coffee shops, and boutiques which make it easy to spend an entire day walking the area. Our third kid had just arrived two months earlier and this was a perfect way for us to spend a relaxed morning on a sunny late summer day.
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67. Spongebob Musical on Broadway

This moment makes the list because it was the first Broadway musical for Mei Ling and the kids. The show was beautifully done with vividly colorful costumes and sets, and the kids loved it. Outside the theater the neon billboards illuminated us as if it was daylight while thousands of people and cars packed Times Square. It was a regular Tuesday night but it felt like a raucous festival that would never end. Broadway and Midtown might not be for everyone but it is probably the most iconic spot in New York City.
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66. Flying Soul chocolate cake in Martinique
About a year before Mei Ling finally came to live with me for good we went to a friend's wedding in St. Lucia and then took a few extra days to visit Barbados and take a road trip around Martinique. It was our first time renting a car together and it was very eye-opening to see the variety of experiences we could have with the freedom of our own wheels. Our last stop in Martinique was the resort town of Trois-Îlets where we had one of the worst restaurant dinners in memory. The food looked and tasted as though it had been dumped out of cans onto the plates. We attempted to salvage our night by driving to another restaurant down the coast that was highly recommended by our guidebook. This was before we had unlocked phones and local SIM cards so we were driving along the coastal road in the darkness with only a map to guide us. The drive was much longer than expected and we were on the verge of giving up and returning when we spotted the restaurant. Fortunately our second dinner was good enough to make up for the failings of the first as well as the long drive. The evening was capped by the best chocolate lava cake that either of us had ever tasted, which went by the name of Flying Soul on the menu. The restaurant was right on the beach and after dinner we strolled onto the sand and listened to the waves gently lapping against the shoreline. I threw in one of the pictures from our trip that shows a typically verdant Martinique landscape.
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65. Noche Mexicana in Merida, Mexico
Most Anglos who could even think of a city in the Yucatan Peninsula will instantly name Cancun but the capital of Yucatán State, Merida, is larger and much more cosmopolitan. We enjoyed the sprawling community market of Merida as well as top echelon restaurants and an excellent food hall called Mercado 60. The most memorable part of our stay came on a Saturday night when we went out to experience Noche Mexicana, a weekly street festival with vendors, rides, and a walk through avant garde art installations. There were thousands of people walking in the center of town which had been pedestrianized for the occasion. There was a wonderful feeling of energy and we had the feeling we had stumbled onto a local secret few people outside of the area are familiar with.

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64. Chao Phraya
It's hard to pick out a single peak experience from my three visits to Bangkok, but the one thing I would certainly do on every visit would be to take a water taxi on the Chao Phraya. This wide river is still a major conduit for transport and commerce in the city and is the source of the canals that have given Bangkok the nickname "Venice of the East". A leisurely ride down the Chao Phraya provides the best view of the amazing juxtaposition of ancient temples and ultramodern skyscrapers for which Bangkok is famous. Some of the city's best street markets are just steps away from the ferry stops.
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63. Venice gondola ride
When it comes to tourist traps, the Venice gondolas have to be near the top of the list. It's an extravagantly-priced phenomenon that would be non-existent if not for the hordes of tourists willing to fork out cash for an obligatory experience. I've learned to run like a deer from any travel experience that seems to be obligatory. From the Mona Lisa in Paris to the Forbidden City in Beijing they've turned out to be disappointments. During our full day of walking in Venice I rolled my eyes and quickened my step each time we passed one of the gondolier stations but at one point I caught a flash of disappointment on Mei Ling's face. I began to have second thoughts and realized that perhaps I'd dismissed the idea too quickly. Venice itself is a ridiculously over-touristed city but there's no question that it is still worthwhile to visit for its unique watery beauty. Could I be missing something about the gondola ride? I shrugged and shelled out the standard eight Euros for a forty minute ride. As soon as we reached the main canal I realized that Venice looked and felt completely different from the water. Something about the movement of the small boat and the low angle really brought home the impression that the whole city was floating like some kind of magical conjuration. The community of small boats on the canals was a different world from the pedestrians on the walkways and bridges. At the end I was very grateful to Mei Ling for preventing me from overthinking my way out of a valuable part of the Venice experience.
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62. Spanish immersion in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
By the time I was in the final year of my emergency medicine residency, I'd wised up enough to take advantage of an elective month by using it to travel internationally. I chose an immersion course in medical Spanish in the colonial town of San Miguel de Allende in central Mexico. There are so many American expats living in the center of town that in some ways it doesn't feel like Mexico, but the beautiful architecture and artwork of the city inspired a love of that unique country which has never abated. Sadly I've lost whatever photos I took during that time but I more than made up for it with my return visit for the annual bull festival, which I'll cover in a later entry.

61. The streets of San Francisco
In 2013 when Cleo was almost a year old and Mei Ling was pregnant with Ian we set off on our first trip around the world. Our last stop before returning home was San Francisco, a city I had spent time in before but Mei Ling had never visited. During that time we walked through most of the city's famous neighborhoods, from North Beach to Golden Gate Park. After that visit I concluded that San Francisco is the best walking city in the United States. The diverse ethnic neighborhoods, beautiful parks, and immaculate Victorian houses give it the edge over New York City. Throw in the energetic but uncrowded atmosphere and the eclectic local population and I have one of my ten favorite cities in the world.
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Next up, experiences 60-51!

Posted by zzlangerhans 12:04 Comments (2)

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