A Travellerspoint blog

Southern Czechia: Telč and Český Krumlov

The original plan was to stop in Telč on the way from Olomouc to Prague, but we ran out of time. Fortunately it wasn't a major detour from our route to Český Krumlov, so we didn't have to miss it. The star attraction of the small village is the town square, which is surrounded by houses many of whose facades are decorated in the Renaissance style of sgraffito. Other houses display Gothic or Baroque facades. The overall effect is very striking and unique.
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Here are more photos and information about Telč.

Not wanting to limit ourselves to the main attraction, we took a short walk outside the main tourist area. The old town is surrounded by ponds on three sides, the remnants of the ancient moat. Aside from that, there wasn't much to the town. The other good thing about our detour to Telč was that it took us through a beautiful area of forest and lakes where wealthy Czechs seemed to have their summer homes.
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The only good thing about leaving Prague was that we still had Český Krumlov ahead of us. The old town packed into a couple of polypoid twists of the serpentine Vltava River is legendary for its medieval beauty. The city has one of the more interesting layouts I've ever seen, a linear arrangement of tiny peninsulas connected by bridges.
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After settling into our Airbnb in neighboring Kájov, we drove to the town and found our way to the P3 lot. We walked through Městský Park, an attractive green space, and crossed the bridge to the Old Town. The layout of the Old Town roughly approximated three concentric rings with the narrow streets ascending to the main square Náměstí Svornosti in the center. The town continues to rise into the isthmus of the peninsula with the Baroque St Vitus Church occupying the highest point. We struck out hunting for a table at one of the highly rated restaurants in the Old Town and eventually had to choose the lesser of evils in the main square. We managed a decent dinner at our subterranean choice, even though it seemed to have all the markings of a tourist trap.
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Thursday morning we made sure we were at Krčma Markéta as soon as it opened for lunch. This restaurant at the edge of the Castle Garden was generally acknowledged to be the best in Český Krumlov. It was interesting to see the meat being grilled on an open flame but aside from that we couldn't figure out what made the place distinctive.
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The Castle Garden was colorful and well-maintained, with a large lily pond at the western end. We walked around for a while but couldn't find the castle that went with the garden. The only way out by foot seemed to drop down into the Old Town and I didn't want to have to push the strollers back up a steep hill. Instead we retrieved the SUV and returned to our old friend the P3 outdoor lot.
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Walking through Městský Park, we could see rows of beautiful houses on the opposite side of the Vltava as well as kayakers paddling in the shadow of St Vitus Church.
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We crossed the river into the Old Town and soon found ourselves in the main square once again. In the light of day the appealing colors and outlines of the buildings lining the square were much more apparent.
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It wasn't long before we came to another bridge, this time crossing from the north side of the Old Town to the castle area. Here we could finally see the massive Český Krumlov Castle looming above us. As we entered the castle we passed the brightly-colored six-story tower, constructed in a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles. We could see people moving around in the observation deck of the tower but decided that wasn't for us.
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We weren't sorry to have passed by the tower, as the views of the Old Town from the castle ramparts were spectacular. There was a bit of a competition for the best vantage point, with views of both the castle tower and St. Vitus Church, but we were able to negotiate a few seconds for an unobstructed photo.
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We didn't tour the inside of the castle but we did get to see this magnificent trompe de l'oeil decoration of one of the inner courtyards.
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Czechia was the last new country of our trip, but we still had a couple more days in Germany and we intended to make the most of them. It was time to get back on the road to Bavaria.

Posted by zzlangerhans 07:22 Archived in Czech Republic Comments (0)

Prague part II, including Kutná Hora

Tuesday morning we started the day at Vyšehrad, an old fort on the banks of the Vltava south of the New Town. There was a great playground with a mini zipline and 360° views of Prague, as far as Prague Castle.
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Next was another short road trip, this time eastward to the historical town of Kutná Hora. The town is best known for the majestic Church of St. Barbara and the creepy Sedlec Ossuary. The church contains a mixture of Gothic and Baroque elements and wasn't completed for more than 500 years after construction originally began. The three sloping pyramidal roofs fenced in by multiple spires give the church a unique and ominous appearance. From the plaza in front of the church we could see the rest of the town and the surrounding valley for miles.
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The kids fell asleep once we left the church so Mei Ling went into the Sedlec Ossuary on her own. I'm not a big fan of internal decor created out of human bones anyway. More extensive background and photos of the ossuary can be found here.
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It was Ian's third birthday, so our top priority on our return to Prague was to find a memorable place to celebrate. I decided Malá Strana was likely our best bet given the high concentration of tourist attractions and restaurants. On our arrival in the neighborhood, my decision was rewarded with that rarest of Prague black swans, a green parking spot. In Prague the parking is divided into blue, orange, and green zones. Most of the parking is blue, which means it is for residents and can get you booted without a permit. The general feeling seems to be "Don't risk it". Orange is two-hour metered parking from 8 am to 6 pm. There was a fair amount of this in the New Town where we lived which meant we didn't have to get to our car until 10 am as long as I fed the meter the previous evening. I'd never even seen a green spot until this moment, let alone a free one. Green meant a full six hours without having to return to the meter. It was already after five so an orange would have sufficed just as well, but I considered the unexpected appearance of a green spot to be a good omen.

We let the kids shake off a little energy clambering up and down the sloping sides of the World War II monument while we enjoyed the sight of a dignified stand of weeping willows in front of a line of resplendent townhouses. South of the Mánes Bridge, we were able to walk right to the edge of the Vltava where ducks and swans awaited handouts from tourists. Just a little further upstream was the Charles Bridge.
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In front of the Kafka Museum a little further south we encountered the most shocking David Černý sculpture of all, two metal figures with swiveling hips and waggling penises standing in and urinating into a shallow pool in the shape of the Czech Republic. Many people seem to think the sculpture's name is "Piss", but it's actually "Proudy". Apparently if a message is texted to a number written on a sculpture, the men will write the message with their streams. It's easy to focus on the sheer audacity and offensiveness of the sculpture, but the figures are quite evocative completely independent of their activity. I didn't even notice until I looked at my photos afterward how the corrugation in the metal surfaces blurs the men's features and outlines creating a sense that they are either materializing from or vaporizing into the ether. Regardless of one's interpretation of Černý's meaning, there's a lot more going on here than shock value. Černý himself has been resistant to explaining or justifying his work, having previously stated “I just enjoy pissing people off." I like that. His sculptures challenge pedestrians to move beyond their gut reactions and examine their own assumptions about culture and politics. More about David Černý can be found here and here. You would never see a sculpture like this on the streets of any American city, and probably not in western Europe either. The Černý sculptures are a great example of what makes Prague unique.

With our last Prague landmark out of the way, we devoted our full attention to finding a restaurant for Ian's birthday. I found a hotel restaurant that was highly rated for food a short distance away and when we arrived it was clearly a great choice. We were seated outside with a pleasant view of the square and I arranged for Ian to get a cake and candle with Happy Birthday sung to him in Czech. Dinner was good and the birthday surprise went off well, except that they didn't give me a heads up before coming out so by the time I got the video started the Czech birthday song was halfway over.

One unavoidable consequence of our Saturday evening arrival in Prague was that we missed the Naplavka market on the bank of the Vltava on Saturday morning, which is apparently the best farmer's market in Prague. Our consolation prize was the Jirak farmer's market in the upscale Vinohrady district, which runs from Wednesday through Saturday. After having lunch at the market and buying some fruit for the day's drive, we took a short walk in the area to admire the beautiful Baroque architecture. I realized that despite the difficulty of meeting my high expectations, Prague had actually exceeded them. I had been amazed by the majesty of the Old Town and the Vltava, the beauty of the residential neighborhoods, and the great spirit of the residents. I concluded that Prague was now my second favorite city in Europe, ahead of Barcelona. I'm sure nothing will ever displace London from the top of that list. It was time to bid farewell to Prague but we were excited about our next destination, Český Krumlov. Here's some more about Prague farmers markets and the Vinohrady area.
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Posted by zzlangerhans 11:46 Archived in Czech Republic Comments (0)

Prague part I, including Karlštejn and Pilsen

Somehow in 47 years of extensive travel first with my parents, and then on my own, I had missed out on Prague. For some time it had been the number one city on my list of the unseen, so I had a hard time controlling my expectations. I would have been disappointed if it was anything less than the top experience of the trip. I had scheduled four nights in the city, a duration only equaled by Vienna on this journey. Thanks to our stop in Brno, we arrived in Prague after dark on Saturday and had to scramble to get dinner once we'd gone through the rigamarole of getting the kids and bags upstairs.

Sunday morning we set off on foot to explore the city. We were staying in the New Town but it was only a fifteen minute walk north to the famous Old Town Square. Even though the square was full of tourists, the buildings and views were breathtakingly beautiful. Most impressive was the 14th century Týn Church, which looked like a suitable home for the Wicked Witch of the West.
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We explored a few of the Old Town's narrow alleys around the square but we were getting hungry and I had my heart set on lunch at Lokál Dlouhááá, a nearby pub that served Pilsner Urquell straight from the tanks as well as classic Czech dishes. The food turned out to be excellent and the portions huge, so that my stomach felt like it was halfway up my chest by the time we walked out.
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South of Lokal we found more beautiful buildings to admire including the Powder Tower, one of the original gates to the city. Cleo and I climbed to the observation deck and were rewarded with great views of Old Town rooftops and the Týn Church. Afterwards we strolled the main pedestrian street in Prague, Wenceslas Square, which is more of a wide boulevard than a square.
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One interesting thing we encountered on our walk was an enormous layered sculpture of a head with a reflecting surface and three levels that rotated independently in different directions. Later I learned that this was a new installation by Czech modern sculptor David Černý and that the head was a bust of Franz Kafka. I actually had a few of his sculptures on my list of things to see in Prague but I wasn't aware of this one.

At this point we were a little overdosed on sightseeing and very close to where our car was parked, so we decided this would be a good time to head to the Vietnamese community of Sapa. Prague apparently developed a sizable Vietnamese population during the Communist area, and their numbers have increased substantially over the last two decades. At first, I thought Sapa represented an ethnic Vietnamese neighborhood within the city of Prague but once we got on the road I realized that it was an entirely separate locale. It took more than half an hour to get there from central Prague, most of it highway driving. Despite being a rather unattractive place that resembled a chaotic, low end strip mall, Sapa had very authentic Vietnamese grocery stores and delicious Vietnamese food. I take this last on faith from Mei Ling because I was still too bloated from my pork knuckle lunch to try her pho. I also got an overdue and inexpensive haircut.
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For more on Sapa check out the blogs here and here.

On our return to Prague I drove to the Zivkov TV tower to see David Černý's crawling babies. It's a testament to the spirit of Prague that Černý was actually requested by City Hall to perform an installation on the tower, although he had to obtain his own permits. The babies look tiny against the 709 foot tower but are actually about ten feet long. Most people who don't know about the sculptures don't even notice them when they look at the tower.
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From the TV tower we drove to Malá Strana, the section of old Prague across the Vltava River from the Old Town. This seemed to be the closest location to see Prague Castle, the top attraction of the city. However, we had to carry the strollers up an enormous series of staircases to get to the castle gates. The views over Prague were spectacular. We decided against buying tickets to the castle, which would have been a major time sink, and walked for a while around the castle district of Hradčany. We realized ruefully we could have easily parked in that area and saved ourselves all the work we had done climbing up from Malá Strana.
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Back down in Malá Strana, we took the obligatory walk over the Charles Bridge with its carnival of tourists, performers, and beggars. The famous baroque statues on the bridge are actually replicas, with the originals having been placed in the National Museum to protect them from tourists attempting to clamber on them.
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We had dinner at the beer garden in Riegrovy Sady, a large park just west of the TV tower. The crowd seemed to be an even mix of locals and expats enjoying a cheesy American movie.
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Monday morning we drove to the north side of the Vltava to check out the Holešovice daily market, the only real permanent outdoor market in Prague (the Havel Market in old town is more of a collection of souvenir stands and overpriced fruit for tourists). We're always happy to be in any kind of community market or farmers market, but Holešovice was a weak competitor to the main markets of Bratislava, Budapest, or Kraków. Prague is more like an American city where people prefer supermarkets. There was a short row of ethnic restaurants including a Vietnamese place, so I got my pho in the end.
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After lunch we drove to Karlštejn Castle. This 14th century Gothic repository of the royal treasures is one of the best-known castles in Czechia. Despite being only a short distance from Prague, the small roads around Karlštejn were so bereft of vehicles that I began to wonder if I was in the right area at all. Then we suddenly came upon an enormous parking lot full of cars and it was clear we'd arrived at our destination.

My research indicated that we should get transportation from the parking lot to the castle, but the taxis were asking exorbitant prices and the carriage driver wouldn't take us without more passengers. We waited around a while, but everyone seemed to be walking so we decided to follow suit. At first the walk was level and relaxed, and the castle soon became visible on a hilltop overlooking the small village. However, a steep incline soon appeared and eventually the walk became an exhausting, sweaty slog pushing the two strollers with Spenser on my back. Once we finally made it to the top of the hill, we saw that tours of the castle weren't going to be feasible since they were lengthy and required a lot of climbing. Instead we took turns taking the older kids around the parts of the ramparts that were open without a guide. From the gaps in the walls we had pleasant views of the surrounding forest.
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Here's some more about Karlštejn Castle .

It was still relatively early so we decided to keep heading southeast to the town of Pilsen for dinner rather than returning to Prague. Once we arrived we found a festival in progress in the main square. There was a music pavilion, a tent where performers taught circus tricks, plenty of food, and of course lots of Pilsner beer. We never did find out what the festival was celebrating, but we had a great time celebrating it with a very local crowd under the watchful presence of the enormous cathedral of St. Bartholomew. The colorful Baroque townhouses that lined the square reminded us that the classical was never far from the modern in central Europe. After the festival, the kids played in one of the gilded Ondřej Císler fountains in the square.
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Here's more about Republic Square and Pilsen. Thanks to the festival, we didn't have to worry about finding a restaurant for dinner and drove directly back to Prague and our comfortable beds.

Posted by zzlangerhans 03:18 Archived in Czech Republic Tagged prague pilsner kutna_hora karlstejn Comments (0)

Western Czechia: Olomouc and Brno

I had found Olomouc hunting for a stop between Kraków and Prague, which would otherwise have been an unpleasant six hour drive. My other option was Wroclaw in Poland, but ultimately I went with Olomouc because it bothered me to exclude the western Moravian region of Czechia from the trip. We'll gather Wroclaw into a Germany-Poland road trip one day, but probably won't pass by Moravia again.

After a late afternoon arrival at our Airbnb in a dull apartment complex in the neighboring town of Prostějov, we headed to Olomouc's old town for dinner. The food at the most highly recommended restaurant was average but the main square Horní náměstí was pretty in the fading light. The major landmarks are the Holy Trinity Column, an imposing sculpture with a small chapel nestled within its hollow base, and the Town Hall.
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Saturday morning we returned to the main square for Olomouc's small but atmospheric weekly market, which offered an array of sausages and cheeses along with produce and crafts.
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We explored the chapel at the base of the Holy Trinity Column as well as the Astronomical Clock on the facade of the Town Hall. We were right on time to watch the figurines at the top put on their noon performance.
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We spent another hour or so exploring the old town's small network of cobblestone streets and discovered the surprisingly large and ornate Cathedral of St. Wenceslas. Unfortunately the area outside the cathedral has become a gathering place for the town's itinerant tipplers. The lower square, Dolní náměstí, has its own column that was built to celebrate the ending of a plague.
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We were excited to get to Prague, but since there was no way we'd arrive in time to check out any markets we decided to stop at a well-known vegetable market in the Moravian capital of Brno. Unfortunately, once we had worked out the parking and navigated our way uphill to the central square of the old town it was clear that the last of the vendors was packing away their produce for the day. We consoled ourselves with a heavy lunch at a nearby restaurant where the star attraction was a shrimp shish kebab on a devil's pitchfork.
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Having already done the work to get to the top of Petrov Hill, we found that old Brno was quite a beautiful place. At the very top of the hill is the Baroque Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul. The cathedral is surrounded by a pleasant park called Denisovy Sady. The picture of Cleo standing among the shaded columns of the park pavilion is one of my favorites of the trip.
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On the way back down Petrov Hill we found a solitary sorbet vendor in the empty main square, so all was not lost regarding our market after all. We got back onto the road to Prague quite pleased with our stop in Brno.
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Posted by zzlangerhans 13:22 Archived in Czech Republic Tagged brno olomouc czechia Comments (0)

Kraków

It was still raining when we arrived in Kraków. Our Airbnb was a cozy place on Dietla, a wide boulevard that coursed directly between the two old neighborhoods of Stare Miasto and Kazimierz. After dropping our bags, we hurriedly consulted TripAdvisor and soon found ourselves hunting for parking in the central square of Kazimierz, the old Jewish Quarter. We wedged ourselves in eventually but our targeted restaurant was booked up. We made a reservation for the next night and discovered an outdoor grill in the square. We consulted the friendly proprietor about where we should eat and he directed us to the restaurant immediately behind him with which he was affiliated. We got to enjoy a restaurant dinner as well as meat hot off the outdoor grill.
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Thursday morning we made a beeline for the largest market in Kraków, Plac Imbramowski. This warehouse-like produce market is far from the touristic center and is a very local scene. Vendors were exceptionally friendly, which we found to be typical of the Krakovians in general. Some of the highlights were a coffee shop operating out of the back of a Smart Car, complete heads of sunflower seeds, and enormous bags of puffed corn. We had a typical Polish lunch at a cafeteria-style restaurant adjacent to the market before heading back to the center to explore the old neighborhoods.
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Wawel Castle is the defining landmark of Kraków, nestled between a sharp bend of the River Vistula and Stare Miasto old town. We took the winding path up Wawel Hill to the Castle but as usual decided against any of the guided tours. The exteriors of the castle and the cathedral within gave us plenty to marvel at.
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Stare Miasto is definitely the place to hang out for tourists in Kraków. There were so many people there, I found myself wondering where they came from and what kind of trips they were on. Kraków is hundreds of miles from the well-known tourist cities of Berlin, Prague, Vienna, and Budapest. Were people flying here from other countries just to visit Kraków, or were they mostly coming by train? I doubted there were many people on long road trips like us. I also didn't think there were many Americans there, because Kraków is largely unknown to us compared to the cities I mentioned before. I was very glad I'd made the decision to extend the road trip all the way here because the city was truly unique and beautiful, even though I'd heard so little about it before. The old town was immaculately clean despite the presence of horse-drawn carriages everywhere. At the heart of the old town are the open plaza Rynek Główny and the 14th century St. Mary's Basilica. The plaza was filled with vendors selling grilled meat, pierogis, and souvenirs.
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We had some time before dinner so we walked over to Kazimierz, which had a more Bohemian, lived-in feel than Stare Miasto. The remnants of the daily market at Plac Nowy were making their last sales.
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Dinner in the popular restaurant in Kazimierz where we had reserved a table ended up being nothing special, but it's always good to try a new country's local lager.
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Friday we decided to visit as many markets as we could in central Krakow before leaving for Czech. First up was Hala Targowa, a gritty outdoor market just east of the old town with good produce and a tiny little restaurant in the back.
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On the way back through the old town we encountered the annual pierogi festival where every conceivable variety of the little bland dumpling was being made and sold. At one booth Mei Ling and the kids got a pierogi cooking lesson. It was fun, but I think I'll stick with dim sum.
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The last two markets were Nowy Kleparz and Stary Kleparz, slightly north of the old town. These were both good-sized markets and each had their individual character and specialties. I can't remember if we've ever been able to walk to three separate farmer's markets in one city before. We could have made it four if we had decided to go to Plac Nowy in Kazimierz as well, but we had already been there at the end of the previous day. None of the individual markets was quite as much fun as Trhovisko Miletičova in Bratislava, but with all the venues together we concluded that Kraków was one of the better market cities we had visited.
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We spent another hour or so in Kraków having lunch and checking out the interesting strip of park called Planty that surrounds the old town. After a two-day stay that passed far too quickly, it was time to move on to the Czech Republic, the last country of our road trip.
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For more on Kraków, here are links to a great summary of ways to spend time in the city and to a list of the markets with good descriptions.

Posted by zzlangerhans 17:25 Archived in Poland Comments (0)

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